http://www.dallasnews.com...tabercrombie.4027698.html
Joshuah Welch, a manager with Abercrombie in North Park Mall, was recently told not to return to work until his hair was a more normal color.
Mr. Welch, a former star of the CBS show 'Big Brother,' said he was told that his hair, which has new blonde highlights, was not a suitable image
that Abercrombie wished to portray. Mr. Welch posed for pictures Friday afternoon in the Uptown area of Dallas, Texas.
"There's no real problem to discriminate against 'ugly' people,"...
______________________________
Employees: 'Hierarchy of hotness' rules at Abercrombie & Fitch
02:09 PM CDT on Wednesday, August 27, 2008
By JESSICA MEYERS / The Dallas Morning News
jmeyers@dallasnews.com
There's no in between. You're either Abercrombie hot - or you're not.
Kristen Carmichael discovered she didn't fit the clothing store's self-
described "sexy, effortless style" when she was pulled from a sales
position on the floor of the NorthPark Center store and shoved back to
the stockroom to fold clothes.
This was after they'd rated her face.
The college student who was in Dallas for the summer and her female co-
worker had received a 0 ranking on a district manager's monthly audit.
The report, posted on a wall in the office, included the question, "Do
all female models currently working have beautiful faces?"
There were two choices, 0 and 5, with the higher number signifying an
approval rating for the models - an Abercrombie & Fitch term for sales
representatives. The same question for the male models had both 0 and
5 marked - a mix.
"It's so subjective how they judge you," said Ms. Carmichael, a 19-
year-old brunette with sharp blue-green eyes and a trim, athletic
build, who was told by one manager that she wasn't attractive enough
to work on the floor.
The debate centers on the ethics of labeling teenage beauty more than
on the possibility of unlawful actions. At issue is whether it's
morally justifiable to define an "Abercrombie look" these days, three
years after a lawsuit settlement forced the retailer to enhance
diversity and amid ongoing debate about Abercrombie's marketing
practices, which often include shirtless young men and wistful-looking
women in thin outer garments.
Todd Corley, Abercrombie's vice president of diversity and inclusion,
said the "face" question refers to the full presentation of an
individual, not merely his or her visage.
The company says it is important to uphold the brand's image and
maintain diversity in its stores. Some sales representatives are
chosen to appear in posters, ads and other marketing materials.
'Hierarchy of hotness'
Sales people function as the store's advertising and are handpicked by
current employees, said Joshuah Welch, a 26-year-old Dallas resident,
was hired two weeks ago as a manager and told to recruit people who
walked into the store looking "all-American, clean, wholesome, or the
girl or boy next door." He said stocking employees, on the other hand,
are told not to speak to customers.
"It's a hierarchy of hotness," he said.
Cory Payne thought he reached the upper tier when he was recruited as
a "model," or salesman, at the Dallas store. Then he found himself in
the back storeroom.
"It wasn't the job we signed up for," said the tall 22-year-old blond
athlete. "We showed up on time and we felt we were being punished for
being good employees."
A weekly "secret shopper" evaluation posted in the back room also
focuses on appearance. Employees receive one point for a "yes" to the
questions, "Was the person in the women's front room attractive?" and
"Was the cashier attractive?"
These rating systems remain legal as long as they don't discriminate
based on race or gender.
"There's no real problem to discriminate against 'ugly' people," said
Jahan Sagafi, a partner at Lieff Cabraser Heimann & Bernstein, the
firm that represented the plaintiffs in the original diversity suit.
"The problem is when you define beauty to incorporate white, which it
essentially does at Abercrombie."
Ms. Carmichael and Mr. Payne are both white and say they don't expect
legal or financial compensation. Instead, they believe their demotion
signifies a disturbingly shallow mentality in youth-focused retail.
The job is "a cattle call and you are hired based on looks, not your
ability to fold clothes or work with people," Mr. Welch said.
Fitting a mold
He just quit his managerial training program at the NorthPark store
after his bosses told him he would have to leave if he didn't get rid
of his new blond highlights.
"I need a job where I am appreciated for the work I do, not because I
fit into their mold," said Mr. Welch, who previously worked for
Abercrombie in Austin before appearing on a season of the CBS reality
show Big Brother.
"I thought they had evolved, but they haven't," he said.
The company agreed in 2005 to pay $40 million to a group of Latinos,
blacks, Asians and females who accused the company of advancing whites
at the expense of minorities.
Working on diversity
Company representatives say they're fostering a much more diverse and
accepting workplace since the lawsuit, with about 32 percent of the
floor staff now either Asian, black or Latino.
Last spring, the company - which has more than 1,000 stores and 88,000
employees nationwide - created a new "look book," a collection of
images for managers to refer to when hiring.
"It's an array of faces - black, white, Hispanic," Mr. Corley said.
"It gives a sense of style, dress. It goes to a whole standard of
appearance."
Although the company has hired a diversity coordinator and promoted
more minorities to management positions, it's unclear to what extent
Abercrombie has adapted its image.
A court-appointed monitor wrote in his second annual compliance report
last August that images of Asians and Latinos were "almost entirely
absent" in Abercrombie's marketing. A third compliance report is due
at the end of the month. Earlier this month, a civil rights group
filed a lawsuit on behalf of a Muslim teenager in Oklahoma who alleged
she was denied a job because she wears a headscarf.
Unintended bias
Even physical evaluations can tread on shaky ground because they often
unintentionally discriminate, said Greg Gochanour, a lawyer with the
Equal Employment Opportunity Commission and the supervising trial
attorney on the 2005 case.
He called the rating system "bizarre" and said he hasn't heard of
other companies with this type of audit.
The streamlined image book in each store is intended to take out bias,
said Mr. Corley, as are partnerships with organizations such as the
Anti-Defamation League. The company also is working with Georgetown
University to establish the country's first diversity management
program.
Ms. Carmichael, who is back at school in Arizona, said that even if
the company isn't technically violating the law, it's still sending
the wrong message.
"It just seems so superficial and kind of stupid," she said. "I don't
think I'm the most attractive person in the world, but I don't think
I'm so hideous you have to shove me into a back room."
"There's no real problem to discriminate against 'ugly' people,"...
______________________________
Employees: 'Hierarchy of hotness' rules at Abercrombie & Fitch
02:09 PM CDT on Wednesday, August 27, 2008
By JESSICA MEYERS / The Dallas Morning News
jmeyers@dallasnews.com
There's no in between. You're either Abercrombie hot - or you're not.
Kristen Carmichael discovered she didn't fit the clothing store's self-
described "sexy, effortless style" when she was pulled from a sales
position on the floor of the NorthPark Center store and shoved back to
the stockroom to fold clothes.
This was after they'd rated her face.
The college student who was in Dallas for the summer and her female co-
worker had received a 0 ranking on a district manager's monthly audit.
The report, posted on a wall in the office, included the question, "Do
all female models currently working have beautiful faces?"
There were two choices, 0 and 5, with the higher number signifying an
approval rating for the models - an Abercrombie & Fitch term for sales
representatives. The same question for the male models had both 0 and
5 marked - a mix.
"It's so subjective how they judge you," said Ms. Carmichael, a 19-
year-old brunette with sharp blue-green eyes and a trim, athletic
build, who was told by one manager that she wasn't attractive enough
to work on the floor.
The debate centers on the ethics of labeling teenage beauty more than
on the possibility of unlawful actions. At issue is whether it's
morally justifiable to define an "Abercrombie look" these days, three
years after a lawsuit settlement forced the retailer to enhance
diversity and amid ongoing debate about Abercrombie's marketing
practices, which often include shirtless young men and wistful-looking
women in thin outer garments.
Todd Corley, Abercrombie's vice president of diversity and inclusion,
said the "face" question refers to the full presentation of an
individual, not merely his or her visage.
The company says it is important to uphold the brand's image and
maintain diversity in its stores. Some sales representatives are
chosen to appear in posters, ads and other marketing materials.
'Hierarchy of hotness'
Sales people function as the store's advertising and are handpicked by
current employees, said Joshuah Welch, a 26-year-old Dallas resident,
was hired two weeks ago as a manager and told to recruit people who
walked into the store looking "all-American, clean, wholesome, or the
girl or boy next door." He said stocking employees, on the other hand,
are told not to speak to customers.
"It's a hierarchy of hotness," he said.
Cory Payne thought he reached the upper tier when he was recruited as
a "model," or salesman, at the Dallas store. Then he found himself in
the back storeroom.
"It wasn't the job we signed up for," said the tall 22-year-old blond
athlete. "We showed up on time and we felt we were being punished for
being good employees."
A weekly "secret shopper" evaluation posted in the back room also
focuses on appearance. Employees receive one point for a "yes" to the
questions, "Was the person in the women's front room attractive?" and
"Was the cashier attractive?"
These rating systems remain legal as long as they don't discriminate
based on race or gender.
"There's no real problem to discriminate against 'ugly' people," said
Jahan Sagafi, a partner at Lieff Cabraser Heimann & Bernstein, the
firm that represented the plaintiffs in the original diversity suit.
"The problem is when you define beauty to incorporate white, which it
essentially does at Abercrombie."
Ms. Carmichael and Mr. Payne are both white and say they don't expect
legal or financial compensation. Instead, they believe their demotion
signifies a disturbingly shallow mentality in youth-focused retail.
The job is "a cattle call and you are hired based on looks, not your
ability to fold clothes or work with people," Mr. Welch said.
Fitting a mold
He just quit his managerial training program at the NorthPark store
after his bosses told him he would have to leave if he didn't get rid
of his new blond highlights.
"I need a job where I am appreciated for the work I do, not because I
fit into their mold," said Mr. Welch, who previously worked for
Abercrombie in Austin before appearing on a season of the CBS reality
show Big Brother.
"I thought they had evolved, but they haven't," he said.
The company agreed in 2005 to pay $40 million to a group of Latinos,
blacks, Asians and females who accused the company of advancing whites
at the expense of minorities.
Working on diversity
Company representatives say they're fostering a much more diverse and
accepting workplace since the lawsuit, with about 32 percent of the
floor staff now either Asian, black or Latino.
Last spring, the company - which has more than 1,000 stores and 88,000
employees nationwide - created a new "look book," a collection of
images for managers to refer to when hiring.
"It's an array of faces - black, white, Hispanic," Mr. Corley said.
"It gives a sense of style, dress. It goes to a whole standard of
appearance."
Although the company has hired a diversity coordinator and promoted
more minorities to management positions, it's unclear to what extent
Abercrombie has adapted its image.
A court-appointed monitor wrote in his second annual compliance report
last August that images of Asians and Latinos were "almost entirely
absent" in Abercrombie's marketing. A third compliance report is due
at the end of the month. Earlier this month, a civil rights group
filed a lawsuit on behalf of a Muslim teenager in Oklahoma who alleged
she was denied a job because she wears a headscarf.
Unintended bias
Even physical evaluations can tread on shaky ground because they often
unintentionally discriminate, said Greg Gochanour, a lawyer with the
Equal Employment Opportunity Commission and the supervising trial
attorney on the 2005 case.
He called the rating system "bizarre" and said he hasn't heard of
other companies with this type of audit.
The streamlined image book in each store is intended to take out bias,
said Mr. Corley, as are partnerships with organizations such as the
Anti-Defamation League. The company also is working with Georgetown
University to establish the country's first diversity management
program.
Ms. Carmichael, who is back at school in Arizona, said that even if
the company isn't technically violating the law, it's still sending
the wrong message.
"It just seems so superficial and kind of stupid," she said. "I don't
think I'm the most attractive person in the world, but I don't think
I'm so hideous you have to shove me into a back room."
