We had counted on being early enough to guarantee seats, but few options were open. A booth was available in the comfortable, low-lit main dining room, but only if we were willing to leave by 6 p.m., when one of many parties with reservations was scheduled to arrive. We nixed that, figuring that there was no way we could sample and appreciate the cuisine in a constricted time. Next, we were offered a tall table and bar stools near the cozy fireplace, but that didn't seem the best way to enjoy an entire meal. Finally, we accepted seating on the "outdoor, covered" patio at the back of the restaurant, which was fine once the space heater started sending out its warmth.

Service was gracious and prompt, however. The young man who led us out to the patio returned shortly to make sure that we were happily settled. And the food was well worth the seating complications.

The inspiration behind Firenze's fare is chef Fabio Viviani, who with his friend Jacopo Falleni and father-in-law, Mike Takeda of Ventura, co-owns the new restaurant.

Viviani, who operated restaurants in Florence, Italy (Firenze is Italian for Florence), before crossing the ocean, brings to the table a diverse array of Italian specialties, many based on family recipes.

The team brings its finesse into a space that previously was home to Bauducco's. Firenze has maintained and enhanced the timeless style of that restaurant, keeping the sparkling crystal chandeliers and adding dark-chocolate booths and soothing dark woods.

Adjacent to the humming restaurant is a well-stocked delicatessen, where many of the foods that Viviani selected for the restaurant and deli during a spring tour of his native land are available for takeout or on-the-spot dining.

After a brief discussion with our attentive waiter, we understood that no matter what we ordered, we'd probably be taking something home in a box. With that in mind, we ordered a shared appetizer of prosciutto with cantaloupe, honeydew and watermelon ($13.95); insalata di gamberi e pomodori secchi (baby mixed salad tossed with seared sugar shrimp, buffalo mozzarella, roasted asparagus, sun-dried and cherry tomatoes, and fennel, $14.95); malfatti di ricotta e spinaci ai funghi porcini e speck affumicato (homemade ricotta cheese and spinach dumpling "malfatti" with roasted wild porcini mushrooms and smoked prosciutto speck, $13.95); and entrees of stinco d'agnello brasato di cuneo (braised lamb shanks, $22.95) and pan-sauteed Italian spiral sausage ($18.95).

We started light with the prosciutto and melons. The watermelon and honeydew were golf ball-sized rounds that looked gorgeous and were full of flavor. The grilled cantaloupe slice added shades of flavor from being touched by fire.

The seared sugar shrimp and roasted asparagus in the salad were layered with flavor, too, and it didn't stop there. Sun-dried and cherry tomatoes, fennel and shaved Parmesan added complexity to the baby greens, with rounds of buffalo mozzarella cozied together under the excellent dressing. Any of the menu's salads could be a major part of a meal, and nearly all have "extra" ingredients that make them stand out.

We were blown away by the lighter-than-air spinach and ricotta dumplings in a roasted wild porcini mushroom sauce accented with smoky prosciutto speck. The "malfatti" in the title refers to the "badly made" shape, which could occur because the dumplings are actually composed of a filling for ravioli and have nothing to keep them from spreading into an uneven shape. These, however, were anything but badly made.

The lamb shank was exceptional for its tenderness and flavor, emboldened by the Barbaresco wine in the sauce. The dish came with ricotta and potato gnocchi in a mascarpone, gorgonzola and roasted mushroom sauce. My friend inquired about the spiciness of the Italian sausage, and our ever-ready server explained that originally, Viviani had served two variations, one moderately spicy, the other more vividly spiced. But now it's a spiral of sausage that even Goldilocks would find just right. My friend loved it. It was served with cherry tomatoes, sauteed rapini and Parmesan mashed potatoes, with basil and a grained mustard salsa.

Finally, we took home a pair of cannoli for dessert, the ricotta cheese and chocolate chips cocooned in a crisp, sugared shell of sweet dough.

Cafe Firenze, in addition to bringing the tastes of Italy to the table, also offers "American favorites" like spaghetti and meatballs, eggplant parmigiana and the usual pasta and chicken dishes, plus pizzas that sound as if they, too, benefit from unusual and well-chosen combinations of ingredients.

Reservations are not only recommended, they might become a must. As we left around 7 p.m., we heard the host saying that the wait for drop-in diners was more than an hour. But if you're not in a hurry to get someplace, Firenze is worth the wait.

- Rita Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her meals. If you know of a new, unusual or just plain good restaurant, please contact her at ritamoran@earthlink.net.